Tuesday, 2 June 2009

Living it up in Lot

As hard as it was to peel ourselves away from Lourmarin, we knew that more fun awaited us in the Lot Region where we would be meeting up with our other contingent -- John, Bay, & Nancy, and Ken & Sandra Wyllie. With very little contact between us all we had kind of hashed out a plan for meeting at the town centre of Labastide Murat (a town nearby to the farmhouse we were all heading to) in the late afternoon. Our little family, along with Jill, headed out on Monday morning, confident that we had a beautiful route planned out. Little did we know how long it would actually take to get there! Thanks to the scenic route we had chosen, we spent almost 10 hours on the road getting to our next abode and everyone was quite exhausted by the days end. That said it was a stunningly beautiful route, and we saw some interesting things along the way.
One of the places we made sure to stop at was the famous Roman aquaduct site of Pont du Gard. When we cycled through this region 12 years ago, we accidently stumbled upon this site. We were so awed by the site then, that we knew we just had to come back. It is one of the best preserved Roman aquaducts in Europe and it is still in very good shape. The setting is stunning -- the aquaduct crosses a beautiful meandering river great for swimming in, and the region is rural and rugged in that unique Provencal way. As with most places we have visited again, the area leading into the site has been more developed/set up for tourists than it was all those years ago. Last time, we just pushed our bikes down a dirt path through the scrub oak to come upon this amazing site; whereas, this time there is now a big tourist centre with parking, a cafe, trinket shops, information booths, and a big paved walkway to the actual site. Perhaps this could sound like the site has been ruined, but really that is far from the truth -- everything that has been done has been done to preserve and protect the natural surrounding environment and to educate the public, and the actual site itself is as amazing as ever.

After the aquaduct, we chose to make our way through the Gorge du Tarn which is a gorgeous steep river valley filled with ancient villages along the way. The picture below shows what the terrain looked like. Just above this old village were the remains of an ancient castle -- one could just imagine times gone by with all of the possible comings and goings at this ancient chateau.
At 9pm, when we finally got to the farmhouse called "Camphenie," we were very, very pleased with the place -- it has true French rustic charm! We have been here now for almost 5 days and the place is turning out to be a true gem. David and Paula, the owners, went to extraordinary efforts to make this old farmhouse what it is today. The original house was built in the 1860's. They purchased it a few years ago with the intention of renovating it as a holiday home in the French countryside which they have done in true style. The setting for the house is nothing short of outstanding -- it overlooks a beautiful farming valley with rolling hills covered with sheep grazing lovely grasslands, and then there are old farmhouses and trees dotted all over the place! We spend our mornings on the front porch facing the early sun and then the evenings on the back veranda having our dinner overlooking the descending valley and spectacular sunsets. You can see the front of the house in the opening picture on this blog. The back veranda is shown in the picture below.
We all started here the first few days with a bigger group (some have left now) and it was really fun and festive. It was also nice having the extra help for the first few days since everyone pitched in a little and helped get the place flowing nicely. Windows were washed, some delicate weeding was done to open up some of the beds around the veranda, and the lawn was mowed to make for some good hang out areas.
Up until yesterday we have had glorious weather enabling us to have late "French hour" dinners whilst enjoying the sunsets from the veranda. Then yesterday a storm came through late in the afternoon that made me (Ronato) think of my days living in the Transvaal, and the rest of us felt as if the Gaulish gods must be angry! The thunder made the house rock and the rain was absolutely torrential. Our friend Jill was out on a walk and got caught in the storm. A lovely local gentleman (we are calling him "her knight in shining armour") found her looking like a drowned rat on the road side and brought her back to our house in his car. It was very kind of him. Overall, we have found the locals and the neighbours to be very open and friendly so far. As we sit here writing, the rain is continuing to come through in fits and starts. It is very beautiful.
Here is a picture showing the open plan kitchen. Below are the local sheep crowded under a tree to avoid the midday heat. Once the sun has passed its zenith, the sheep start to spread out and meander through the fields, munching away peacefully.Kai and Pippin are loving the sheep so close by. They are happy to spend lots of time gazing at them in the field. Kai and Pippin have picked out two particular sheep which they can identify as their own -- wouldn't you know it, they have both picked out the only black sheep in the herd!
It was Grandpa John's 72nd birthday on June 2nd (our second day here in the Lot region.) The kids got really into it and made him feel extra special with funny gifts and cards, all specially wrapped with materials from the property or found around the house. Due to all the sheep here, there have been lots of flies about and so John got some fly swatters as one of his birthday gifts. He has been very busy ever since.
For John's birthday dinner, we all got into a very celebratory mood with lots of wine, good food, and uproarious conversation. John kept saying that he thought this was his best birthday ever!
As we have mentioned before, the sunsets have been nothing short of spectacular. Every evening the light goes positively golden -- we all find ourselves congregating on the back veranda so we can enjoy its delights and of course with such beautiful light Ronato tends to go a bit crazy with his camera. Here is Pippin with her beloved Great Auntie Nancy.
One of the really great things about joining up with our other contingent, was the influx of fresh "blood" and entertainment for Kai and Pippin (well . . . for all of us). Ken Wyllie is always causing some sort of havoc or starting up some sort of interesting project, and Sandra is always game to lead a good ramble or hike. Here they all are in a more peaceful moment during the birthday celebrations.
Here are Skye and John celebrating John turning 72. It has been fun getting to celebrate our two birthdays together on this trip.
Here is Grandpa John leading the first expedition into the neighbouring field. Kai and Pippin had been hankering to check out the "sheep field" ever since our arrival. After getting the go-ahead from our neighbour Guy, they hit the slopes with vigour.
After spending a few days hanging out and exploring our immediate farm and local villages, we decided it was time to go farther afield to the town of Cahors. We wanted to hit the weekly market for fresh produce/products there, and then to check out the famous Valentre Bridge which spans the Lot River. It was a hot, hot day and we were happy to discover a little riverside cafe next to the bridge. Here are Bay & Skye enjoying a nice cool drink.
Here is a shot of the Valentre Bridge which was build in the 1100's.
For our last day as a big group, we all loaded into the two cars and wended our way to the famous village of Rocamadour. This outing turned out to be lots of fun. This, literally, cliff-hanging little village was once a mecca for people on religious pilgrimages (well, it still is) because it was said to be a place of miracles. One of the supposed big miracles was the discovery of an ancient grave in 1166. In the grave was the intact, undecayed body of a religious-minded hermit -- called roc amator because he loved rocks -- who had been buried at this sight who knows how many years before. Following this discovery, there were apparently a whole slew of other miracles attributed to this sight, and so it became a mecca. When we cycled through here 12 years ago, we didn't have the opportunity to really check this place out, other than the main street because we didn't have a place to stash our bikes. This time, we all crawled all over the place!
Here is Pippin at the top of the ridge overlooking the village.
Clinging to the side of the cliff is a large church/basilica complex dating back to the late 1100's. Part of this complex contains a large chapel and a smaller side chapel with an 11th century Black Virgin and Child, another relic said to be responsible for a number of the miracles attributed to this place. Here is Skye on one of the outside balconies of the complex -- you can't see them, but swallows were practically dive-bombing her at this spot, maybe some nests were nearby.
Here is a picture of one of the gorgeous old doors at the site.
After spending a few hours in the Basilica of St. Saveur and its surrounding buildings, we all hit the main street. Ken, tired of the endless walking and stair-climbing, found himself a little friend outside one of the shops and sat down with his gelato to give Alpha the dog a little love. Alpha was in 7th heaven!
After our fabulous outing, we all reconvened at the farmhouse for another one of our famous dinners on the veranda. Here we all are having lots of fun and eating yet another spectactular meal. This was Nancy's last full evening with all of us -- she had to head off the next afternoon (Friday) back to her life in California. Then this morning, Ken and Sandra also had to leave at the crack of dawn to catch the train back to Toulouse and the airport. We will all miss the fun energy that Nancy, Ken & Sandra brought to our time here, but we know they all have to get back to reality!
Well, it is time to head off on another outing. So, until next time . . .

Skye, Ronato, Kai & Pippin

Monday, 1 June 2009

Saying goodbye to Provence... Boo Hooo...

We knew that the time was coming, but there has been some serious sadness with leaving the lovely little home we inhabited while we were here in Provence. We could easily have made this part of our trip last for months. We have decided that we need to make the commitment to come back here for another long stint in the future. Our little hamlet had it all, and we really feel like we made some good connections with some of the local people.

Oh well, it is always best to leave on a high note, and we leave with many fond memories of our time here. We also leave feeling like we have a lot more to explore here in the future!

Our last days in Provence landed up being quite busy -- we all felt like we needed to take in as much as we could before we left the region. Of course with the added trips around the Luberon valley, we were left with the feeling that we had just begun to scratch the surface in terms of what the region had to offer. Then again one needs to keep things in perspective -- three and a half weeks in Provence is not too bad by most people's standards.

On one of our our day trips we went off to some local villages just north of Loumarin, and we stumbled on this stunning Roman bridge build some 2000 years ago. It was an amazing and beautiful sight. It is so thrilling to see so many old structures, and to see how well they have managed to age through the years. Best of all is they are still in use to today -- how is it that we manage to build modern bridges and buildings that can crumble and fall down, and these ones are still standing strongly after thousands of years?!
On this particular outing, we decided it was time to treat ourselves out to a lunch at a little village called Roussillon -- it turned out to be really fun. We have not eaten out much here in Europe because our budget is not quite as flexible as it was in Asia. The good thing is -- we REALLY enjoy it when we do eat out here. The "plat du jour" is always a fun experience in France.
This was Jill's meal choice. It made her very happy!
The village of Roussillon is surrounded by red, iron rich soil, and the village has taken on a similar hue with it's walls all being painted in rich ochres, roses, mochas, etc. It was a very picturesque little village! We went a little photo crazy . . .
We found a few amazing little shops here, as well, and Pippin spent some of her hard earned allowance on a soft, new little friend named "Fluffy," and she was keen to pose with her for the camera.
Our next stop was in a village called Gordes and the photo speaks for itself.
After another great relaxation day in Lourmarin, we decided to spend our last big "outing" day on the Mediterranean. We took the a 90 minute drive down to a town called Cassis. It was great to be at the ocean. In many ways it felt a lot like Cape Town -- similar climate and geography.
The little harbour front in downtown Cassis.
The door knockers in Provence are to die for. This one from Cassis looked really old and like it needed a new home in Canada.
The view from above Cassis looking over the Meditteranean.
Finally it was time to head back to our little hamlet, "Les Lointes Bastides." It truly felt like "coming home," -- what an amazing place!
One of our favourite things to do during our time in Provence, was to follow the French tradition of the two-hour-lunch. We got really into creating a lovely table filled with local delicacies to feast on -- our lunches in France have been very tasty! One of our favourites things to create was to put chevre on bagettes and then broil them in the oven until the cheese was all melty and slightly browned. Oh so tasty! This is a little trick we will definitely bring home.
Well, this is where this blog entry will end for now. Next we will be writing from the Lot region in the Midi Pyrenees. Until then . . .
Skye, Ronato, Kai & Pippin

Tuesday, 26 May 2009

Our time with Jill in Provence

Well here we are again after a long absence. The good thing is that our next place as of next week will have WiFi, so we will be able to get back to more regular posts.

Since our last post we have continued to live an absolutely blissful existence here in our little hamlet in the Luberon. It is hard to describe a more perfect place than Provence. The climate is idealic, with most days now offering perfect blue skies (unlike we have experienced in many of the other places we have been on this trip) and perfect hot dry heat. Most of the time we feel like reptiles lapping up the endless heat rays and simply ooohing and aaahing at the glorious beauty of this place. Like we have probably said many times before, Provence has all the important things for a good quality life: a great climate, unbelievable food (wine, cheese, bread . . .) , stunning old buildings everywhere, and gorgeous scenery - what more could one ask for?

Currently I am sitting at our neighbour Phillipe's computer, and it is slow as hell! The French keyboards are different and so typing is a very arduous process. I am, as a result, going to make this blog more about pictures and less about words.
Our lovely friend Jill joined us ten days ago, and we have had the best time with her taking in all the sights. She loves life and has really appreciated the stunning offerings of Provence.
The above two pictures were taken on an outing we did to Aix-en-Provence. Our general pattern has been to alternate our days between having an outing day and then having a local day in between to relax and enjoy the good life.
These pictures above and below pretty much capture the local days. Lots of reading, hanging out in the sun, swimming and going on local walks. We are surrounded by beautiful mountains and glorious vineyards to enjoy!
Recently we went to Apt to take in the local Jazz Festival. There were tons of eccentric French acts to enjoy. The French are not afraid to be "out there" and some how pull it off without seeming pretentious. This was a performance art piece that had us all quite mesmerized!
Kai and Pippin were very fascinated by all of these odd characters and we all had a good laugh at their crowd-stopping antics.
All around town there were all these open air performances taking place, all for free! This group below was doing a performance inspired by and dedicated to Jackson Pollock. It was very out there but also quite engaging at the same time.
Here we are having a picnic under the Montagne St. Victoire, made famous by being painted so many times by Cezanne. It is a stunning arid landscape filled with the aromas of Provencal herbs growing everywhere.

The flower markets are sooo beautiful in France!
Despite being here for three weeks already, the poppy fields just keep blooming and we continue to ooh and aaah at them all over the place.
The kids are happy to run around in the fields and enjoy them as much as we do.
The local Luberon villages are almost beyond description. Always tucked on hill tops, they are always gorgeous, and we have visited as many as possible in our time here. This one is called Menerbes.
We are just beginning to enter the Lavender season here with fields in bloom everywhere.
This is our local road going to our village of Loumarin. We often hop on the bikes or walk into the local market or the bakery in the morning.
Our neighbour Phillipe has quite the amazing antique collection. Here he is showing us his collection of chamber pots.
Well, that is where we will sign off for now. Until our next blog entry from the Lot region, we hope this finds you all well!
Until next time . . .

Skye, Ronato, Kai and Pippin