Tuesday 27 January 2009

Going down to Krabi Town


After 5 full days in Bangkok, we were ready to head to the beach. The question was, do we take a bus, the train, or do we fly? At $84-ish/ticket for a 1000km journey, we opted for excessive carbon burning -- so off we flew with AirAsia whose motto is, "Now everyone can fly!" Given the long journey it was a good choice at the beginning of our travel experience within Thailand with the kids. As the journey progresses, we will challenge them a little bit more with gruelling road-trips and loud long-tail boat rides.

The morning of our flight down to Krabi (Monday the 26th) began with a slow pack-up and some lounging by the pool (hottest day yet) before arranging for a taxi. Once we had our taxi, we had to do a little haggling over the cost to the airport -- when we were all happy, in we climbed only to have Skye sit squarely on top of a little, ripe Thai banana which smooshed all over her bum! Pippin thought this was hilarious, Skye less so, given we were going to the airport. Over the course of the next hour, the bum of Skye's pants proceeded to turn a nice, dark brown. Lovely . . . in Asia where tummy troubles are common, it looked like Skye was suffering from "Delhi Belly."

We arrived in Krabi to the most unbelievably balmy, silky air and temperature -- all of the gross Bangkok air behind us. Krabi is a very sweet little town with a mellow vibe. Kai in particular felt like it was a more manageable pace. One can cross the road here without feeling like you might die. Since we've been here we took advantage of some amenities, like a laundry service, internet cafes and banking before we start island hopping.

Thai people have been generous, friendly, helpful, and the kids keep commenting on how much they are enjoying interacting with the locals. It is definitely true that as a family people immediately respond to us with big smiles and attempts at interaction and communication. People also love to give our children little gifts, and will not accept payment (food treats, little trinkets, etc.) This is so encouraging given how many tourists come through these areas every year.

Last night we ate at the local Night Market -- a bustling daily event with numerous stalls all offering some local, delicious food choices. You choose the stall where you want to eat at, you order, and then they show you to a table near their stall and bring you the delectable food. Great people watching opportunities and once again the kids loved the food despite its exotic nature. This constantly surprises and amazes us because we all know that kids can be fussy about what they will eat.


The other lovely aspect of life here is how things come alive after dark because it is the most lovely time of day -- it is balmy, the bugs have diminished, and everyone is out eating and socializing. Little kids in their pyjamas, young students in big social gatherings, families, the elderly, etc. all out enjoying the best time of day. This aspect of people being out and about makes Thailand feel so inviting and safe.

This morning we are heading off for Railay Beach which will be more touristy, but we are ready for some days of just kicking back on the beach and swimming in turquoise waters.


Until next time,

Skye, Ronato, Kai & Pippin

P.S. For those less technologically savvy, double-clicking on the images will give you an enlarged, more detailed view.

Saturday 24 January 2009

Bustling Bangkok


Sawatdee!

Here is the first of many (we hope) blog entries. We have been here in BKK for 4 days or so now and it is amazing how quickly we have fallen into a rhythm. We struggled on the first day with the time change, but we worked hard to make sure we only slept in their night time -- now we are mostly fine. Asleep typically by 9pm and then waking up around 6a.m. for now (well . . . Skye has been waking up closer to 5a.m.) Ronato has been taking advantage of the morning time to take his camera on early morning walks -- it is really fun to see the city waking up -- people are out sweeping and clearing the sidewalks and streets, plants in pots are being watered, Buddhist monks are out making collections, deliveries are being made, etc. etc. Interestingly, as busy and polluted as Bangkok is, people here take real pride in keeping the place looking sharp and tidy.

The contrast between BKK and Victoria could not be more stark. The congestion and general throb of humanity is incredible. Initially it is overwhelming, but one does adapt quickly. Negotiating traffic is lots of work and requires some very sophisticated footwork. Cars do NOT stop for lights or crosswalks, and so it is very hard to cross busy streets without feeling like it might be one's end. Today Skye and I agreed that for the most part, the people here are very assertive in the walking and driving practices and by doing that it all works well. As soon as one hesitates, it seems to result in more confusion than help. Basically, if one sees an opening, you take it and trust that everything will flow around you like liquid.

The kids were initially quite freaked out by negotiating the traffic, but they are becoming more confident and are taking more risks in general in terms of wanting to do more and see more. The Thai people are very warm, friendly and receptive to us as a family. We have done some significant distances now across the city by walking, river taxi, taxi, and sky train and people are very helpful and love the kids. Both of them get regular cheek pinches, winks, smiles and attempted chats. Despite the sense of chaos (compared to Canada) Thai people seem very orderly, law abiding and I must say I feel extremely safe (that goes for Skye, too). In fact, I think I feel safer here than I would in most big North American cities walking the streets at night. Part of it is that people are everywhere all of the time. Every city block is filled with stalls selling all manner of things, and families are outside all of the time . . . eating . . . sitting . . . chatting . . . working etc.

At 9pm the temperature is easily 25C and the streets are filled with people sitting at tables on the streets and eating at stalls. Its seems that every city block here has endless eating options and people frequenting them all of the time. It never seems to correspond to traditional meal times, as we know it. I suspect that most families eat out all/most the time . . . due to cramped living spaces and the fact that so many food options exist on their door steps. As for the food - it is better than one could imagine. Thai food is so delicious, and the ingredients are always freshly put together right in front of you, making it so much better. Testimony to how good it is - is the fact that our kids have been lapping up the meals. They love it and are even tolerating some of the spiciness. We have been very proud of how they are rising to the occasion and how they are having fun with it -- they have become pros at dodging the open sewers, walking through narrow alleyways with people sleeping in cool corners, steering clear of mangy dogs, wading through throngs of people on the busy stall-laden sidewalks -- and all with a grace and ease that makes it seem like they have been living here their whole lives!

So this is it for Bangkok for now -- the beach and the warm, turquoise waters of the south beckon -- and so, our next destination is Krabi and from there we think a place called Railay. We'll keep you posted!

Boogying in Bangkok,

Ronato, Kai, Pippin & Skye